dubiously true stories and cartoons

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

FEAR OF FRYING




I was six years old when my pyjama jacket caught fire.

My mum was, what can accurately be described as ‘in between marriages’, and we were living in Blackpool with my grandparents at the time. Grandma was cooking porridge for my breakfast on the gas cooker and she had just left the kitchen to say goodbye to mum and granddad as they left for work. The porridge was simmering and bubbling away on top of the cooker when something shiny at the back of the stove-top caught my eye. I pulled a stool over and climbed onto it and reached over to find out what it was. And that’s when my pyjama jacket caught fire.

This was before the introduction of flame-retardant material and the fire soon took hold and I started to scream. Grandma was there in an instant, ripping my pyjama jacket from my body. She threw it on the linoleum floor of the kitchen and began stamping out the flames with her fluffy slippers.

When the fire was out, leaving a scorch mark on the linoleum, she took hold of me and held me close, ruffling my hair at the same time. “You have to be careful, Stephen,” she whispered in my ear, “fire is very dangerous. God knows what would have happened if I hadn’t heard you.”

Then she clipped me round the ear. “So, don’t do anything as stupid as that again,” she snapped.

I was taught two valuable lessons on the day my pyjama jacket caught fire. One was that fire was something that should be treated with respect and not be trifled with and the other was that I shouldn’t mess with my Grandma. The incident also left me with an (understandable) fear of burning to death, and I never did find out what the shiny thing was at the back of the stove-top.
I was, therefore, somewhat concerned when the fireman went on strike on 14th November 1977 and it was announced by the government that the armed forces were going to take their place. I was stationed at RAF Stafford at the time and for a while I thought I was going to get away with being involved. As much as I sympathised with them and their cause, I didn’t really see the logic or the morality of sending in troops, who were on far less pay than the firemen, to do the firemen’s jobs who were on strike for more pay. Also I didn’t fancy the idea of tackling something that I was morbidly afraid of. But then, just about everyone in the section where I worked were told that we had been selected from a cast of thousands to report to the fire section in between Christmas and New Year of 1977 where we would receive comprehensive fire training before being sent out on a big adventure, from which some of us might not return. It was the start of the winter of discontent in the UK, where not just the firemen, but everyone – dustmen, dock workers, miners, car workers, grave-diggers – all seemed to be going on strike. Well, everyone except for the armed forces, who were not allowed to take industrial action.

Our ‘comprehensive’ training, it turned out, consisted of a fifteen minute demonstration on how to hold onto a pressurised fire hose without it snaking loose and smashing all our teeth out, after which we were loaded onto buses and sent to our various locations. My comrades and I were informed that we were being sent to Stretford, which we discovered on our arrival there was a fiercely militant area in Manchester, whose inhabitants lined the streets outside the TA hall where we were billeted and hurled stones at us whenever we were called out to fires. An armed guard had to be mounted at the entrance to prevent some of the more zealous protestors from gaining entry and slashing the tyres of the Green Goddess fire engines.

The last time I had been in such close proximity to a fire engine was on a freezing February night at RAF Brüggen in West Germany a couple of years earlier where, as part of what was known as the Emergency Field Force (EFF), I was tasked to guard two fire engines that had somehow collided with each other on the airfield. This was an unprecedented occurrence as the airfield was enormous, covering a vast area that stretched further than the eye could see, and it struck me as rather odd that two large red vehicles should have crashed into each other in such a massive expanse of empty space – unless, of course, the concentration of the drivers of each vehicle had been momentarily distracted by something out of the ordinary (a UFO perhaps?) while they were playing chicken. I was ordered to patrol around the wrecked fire engines and prevent anyone from looting them and I was to remain there until I was either relieved or the recovery services came and towed them away. In order to carry out this task I was given a torch – presumably to blind any would-be looters with its beam, before throwing my cold-weather jacket over them and then clubbing them into unconsciousness. I was out there for four hours and, disappointingly, no looters emerged from the darkness of the airfield. Although it was a pointless, thankless duty and I was cold and miserable, it was infinitely better than what the other members of the EFF were experiencing at the time – choking half to death whilst shovelling tons of urea (crystallised cow piss) into vehicles that would be required to grit the roads of RAF Brüggen in the early hours of the morning.

In the section where I worked at RAF Stafford everyone had a nickname – there was Chudsy, Hagsy, Mabsy, Lockers, Walks-Far, Evers, Ski and so on. Nicknames were either derivatives of surnames or were awarded for something they had done that the section staff found unusual or amusing. SAC Stanton’s nickname was shrouded in mystery. No-one knew why he was called Foxy and he never offered to explain to us the reasoning behind it. Foxy amused himself by terrorising the Chinese restaurants in Stafford when he was drunk. Ordinarily he was a good customer, always polite and cheerful – but every now and again he would go on an almighty bender that generally lasted the entire weekend and which occasionally ended with the police escorting him back to RAF Stafford on a Monday morning. Foxy’s benders were legendary. They would start on a Friday night and he would spend the evening moving from pub to pub, consuming an unspecified amount of beer and spirits that would have killed most people, until it was time to hit the Chinese restaurants. Considering he only drank on the occasions he went on his mammoth benders, we were amazed by the sheer volume of alcohol he was able to consume in a single session, whilst also being capable of holding a conversation, albeit a nonsensical one. But that still didn’t explain why he was called Foxy.

I was known as either Steve or Mitch, neither of which was a nickname in the truest sense of the word and I longed to have one. Despite the lack of a nickname, I worked well within the section, using my sense of humour, as I had done throughout my childhood, to become accepted as part of the team and, in fact, in one of my annual assessment reports it stated that ‘Mitchell keeps the lads happy with his eccentric sense of humour’. I wasn’t sure at the time whether that statement was meant as a compliment or a criticism, but I accepted it as the former because the person assessing me obviously couldn’t distinguish between what was ‘eccentric’ and what was ‘childish’.  In the 1970s most men liked to think they were the dominant one in any relationship and it has always puzzled me how we arrived at that conclusion considering that most of us never grow up and that our sense of humour ranges between immature to downright infantile and rarely strays away from either. I mean, how can we ever be taken seriously by the opposite sex when we still laugh at fart jokes and snigger whenever someone slips an unintentional rude word into an otherwise serious conversation? Servicemen tend to use black humour in order to cope with some of the horrible situations they find themselves in, but when that deserts them their brains automatically revert to their default childish humour configuration. I still do it. I can’t help it. I once went out with a rather serious but good looking woman who was into birdwatching and towards the end of our first proper and ultimately disastrous date she pointed out that there was a blue tit in a tree ahead of us. Throughout the day I had successfully feigned enthusiasm about her interest in all creatures feathered, but the overly excited manner in which she pointed out to me yet another bird perched in a tree in the far distance proved too much. I had, by that time, reached the extreme limit of my boredom threshold and, unable to make a witty and intelligent response to her observation, my Y-chromosome immediately took over any brain functions I might have possessed, making me involuntarily snigger and say, leeringly with a small chuckle, “You just said tit.”

I never saw her again after that day. I didn’t even have sex with her, which, due to the shallow nature I possessed back then, was all I was after in the first place.

We arrived at the TA hall in Stretford at around six in the evening. The hall had been home to the Irish Rangers, who had been living there since the start of the strike, and was kitted out with metal-framed beds, pillows and exercise sleeping bags, which we endearingly called ‘green turds’. We each had a small locker in which to keep what stuff we had and after we dropped our stuff onto our beds we were divided up into groups of six-man fire teams and given a briefing by the WO1 who was in charge. He showed us around a Green Goddess and instructed us on how to couple and uncouple the hoses and how to recognise where the fire hydrants were on the street, after which we were kitted out with steel helmets and donkey jackets and each of us was issued a torch. I was on ‘RAF Fire Team 1’ with my friend Lockers, a driver and three others and that meant we would be starting our shift almost immediately. Fire Team 2 was on standby. At the end of his briefing, the WO1 pointed to a three-litre bottle of Bell’s whisky that was stood in the corner of his makeshift office and told us that it would be won by the first team who were out at a fire for longer than twelve hours. “Don’t worry, lads,” the WO1 reliably informed us, “we’ve been here for almost two months and it’s pretty quiet here, apart from the militants. No team’s ever been out for longer than two hours.”

Our shift started at 1900 hours. We were called out at 19.20. We hadn’t even had time to unpack our stuff.

Apart from Lockers, who I’d known since basic training, I can’t remember the names of the rest of our team, so I’ll just make some up. There was Geoff, our driver, who had recently been on crash course on how to drive and operate a Green Goddess, and three others, who I’ll call Tom, Dick and Harry.

With our siren wailing, we followed a police escort as we sped through the streets of Stretford towards our destination. Over the radio on board the Green Goddess, tuned into the police band, we heard what we were heading into. “It’s a big one,” crackled the voice over the airwaves. “An end-row terrace in a street of houses owned by Alcoholics Anonymous. We may need back-up.” My heart started to beat faster and it felt like it was going to burst out of my chest at any moment. The fear in the back seat of the fire engine was palpable. You could have cut the air with a knife. We were, not to beat around the bush, shitting ourselves. When we arrived at the scene it was worse than we could possibly have imagined. It was like a vision from Hell. It was an inferno. The whole house was ablaze. Flames were leaping out of the windows and the air was filled with smoke and heat. 

The first thing we did after leaping out of the Green Goddess was search for a fire hydrant. Unlike in America where they are clearly visible above ground and painted red, hydrants in the UK are underground and marked with a small yellow sign bearing the letter H. For the untrained eye they are almost invisible, especially in the dark. The nearest one we could find was around the corner from where the Green Goddess was parked and so we began the task of unravelling and coupling the hoses in order for them to reach. The hoses leading from the pump in the Green Goddess were unravelled and trained onto the blazing house, and then the water was turned on at the hydrant.

“Hold tight onto those hoses, lads!” yelled the fire chief. “Remember you won’t be able to get a dental appointment at this time of night!”

The fire chief and the police were already at the house when we arrived at the scene. Although the firemen were on strike, the fire chiefs remained at work for safety reasons – our safety. A fire chief was present at each incident in order to protect us novices from our own reckless behaviour and to prevent us from becoming human torches. The police were there for the overtime.

We took turns at holding the hoses and dousing the house with pressurised water. After about an hour, as me and Lockers were waiting to take our turn the fire chief pointed to us and instructed us to follow him. Along with a policeman, he led us around to the back of the house – the flames were leaping out of the windows at the front of the house and we felt some relief and gratitude towards him for leading us to where it seemed safer.

The relief was short-lived.

The first thing we noticed was a body lying in the middle of the back garden covered in a blanket.

“I . . . is that a dead body,” I asked nervously. 

“Aye, lad,” said the policeman, casually lifting up a corner of the blanket, revealing the face of the corpse. “Take a look. E’s got a right good tan from the ‘eat, you know. Looks like he’s been on ‘is holidays, dun’t it.”

“Did he, you know . . .”

“What? Burn to death? No lad, e’s a bit charred but it were asphyxiation from the smoke that got ‘im. From what we can gather ‘e came ‘ome pissed an’ kicked over the gas fire. ‘Is wife didn’t ‘elp ‘im and her and her kid got out and left ‘im behind.”

“Jesus.”

“No, lad, ‘e didn’t ‘elp ‘im, either.”

The fire chief handed me an axe. “Right, lad. Ten minutes is all the time you’re allowed in there without breathing apparatus.”

What? In where?

“Your mate will be right behind you with a hose.”

What?! Why would Lockers be right behind me with a hose?

“There’s fire trapped in the walls of the house. Use the axe to smash holes in the wall to let the fire escape, otherwise this place will be burning until doomsday. Your mate will douse the flames with his hose.”

What??!! Douse the what? With what?

“Now, it’ll be dark in there so feel your way around with the back of your hand. Don’t use your palm because if it touches any exposed electrics your hand will automatically close and you’ll end up lying next to this chap here.”

WHAT???!!! No! No! No! I didn’t want to go in there.

I was twenty-four years old and I’d always envisioned my death to be something more spiritual, like dying peacefully in my sleep with a smile on my face at the age of 105 with a couple of buxom young women - one blonde, one brunette – on each arm after having all-night sex. Burning to death had never been on my list of ‘things to do before I was thirty’ and it was definitely not the way I wanted to shuffle off this mortal coil.

The fire chief patted us both on the back, pointed to the open back door of the burning house, and said, “Right then, lads, in you go!”

 “Try not to breathe too much!” I heard the fire chief calling from behind us. “And when you breathe out, cough. It’ll clear your lungs quicker!”

Fear gripped me like a vice as I entered the building. I was terrified. The heat was so intense it felt like I was under a desert sun and I could smell the acrid stench of smoke in the air all around me. I don’t know how Lockers was feeling, but I suspect he was as terrified as me in those first few moments. But then something happened. The fear suddenly vanished and I swung the axe at the wall. As it smashed a hole into the plasterboard, flames shot out and were quickly drowned by the water from Lockers’ hose.

In the ten minutes me and Lockers spent in there, the floors were caving in under our feet, we could hear glass shattering and the sound of creaking wood and things crashing around in the upstairs bedrooms. Were it not for the adrenaline taking over I would have been frozen in terror. 

Instead, all I felt was exhilaration. In those ten minutes I felt truly alive. They were the most exciting ten minutes I had ever spent in my entire life and the first thing I did when I left that burning, smoke filled building was light up a cigarette.

Two more RAF fire crews were called out to assist us and it took all night to extinguish the fire and water down the charred and smoking embers of what was once a home to three people. At 8.30 the following morning we rolled up the hoses and loaded them back onto the Green Goddess. It was only then that we noticed that we had missed the nearest fire hydrant and that was because we were parked on top of it.

For two months the Irish Rangers had fought small fires and the three litre bottle of Bell’s whisky had stood invitingly and unclaimed in the corner of the WO1s office. The RAF arrived and we won it on our first night there. The Irish Rangers were not pleased, more so because we wouldn’t share it with them.

When we arrived back at the TA hall after that first call-out I unfurled my sleeping bag and fell into a deep sleep. I woke hours later to the smell of freshly cooked food prepared by the army cooks and eased myself, bleary-eyed and with mad hair, out of my green turd. I was still smelling of smoke and sweat as I stumbled to the showers, but after I had cleaned myself up and got dressed I felt vaguely human again. I went to the dining area at the end of the hall and joined the queue.

There was generally two choices at mealtimes – take it or leave it. If I had been a vegetarian (which I am most definitely not) or didn’t like chicken I would have starved to death. Chicken was served up each and every day, and as the days and weeks dragged on we would stand in the queue at mealtimes and make clucking sounds, knowing that when we reached the servery there would be the inevitable chicken meal awaiting us – roast chicken, fried chicken, chargrilled chicken, chicken curry, chicken chasseur, chicken salad, chicken fricassee, chicken and chips, chicken soup, chicken pasta, chicken with chicken. If nothing else, the army cooks at Stretford certainly knew how to prepare chicken and their imagination regarding the many varieties in which to serve it up knew no bounds. If they never learned to cook any other type of meat they would at least be able to find gainful employment at KFC when they left the army. We ate so much chicken during the fireman’s strike that we became chickoholics and it still amazes me to this day that our feathery friends were not driven to the very brink of extinction.

After a few days of easing myself out of my green turd I discovered that I had been given a nickname. It wasn’t a nickname I would have chosen myself, but then only narcissistic monkeys with overinflated egos choose their own nicknames. A nickname should be given to you by your mates as a term of endearment, a form of acceptance into an exclusive club, a male-only bonding ritual and my mates had been watching me waking up each morning with increasing interest and fascination. Apparently they didn’t think I climbed or crawled or jumped or stepped out of my sleeping bag. They thought I slithered out of it.

And from that moment on I was known as Snakey. 

The fireman’s strike ended on January 12th 1978, but we were kept at Stretford for another three days – just in case. We never attended such a raging inferno again during our time at Stretford and for the most part we had to combat boredom by reading books or watching television. But for us the fireman’s strike was not just about fighting fires. It brought back a sense of camaraderie that seemed to have been missing for a long time in the RAF. We had to look out for each other when we were called out. If not there was a real possibility that we may have ended up like that poor alcoholic, covered in a blanket, looking like he had just been on his holidays.

It also cured once and for all my fear of fire.

But most of all the time I spent as a temporary fireman was, believe it or not, fun. I’ll leave you with a newspaper clipping which appeared in the Daily Telegraph, following a report read by the inestimable Reginald Bosanquet at the end of the ITV News at Ten, a spot usually reserved for one of the more amusing stories of the day, but which, in this particular instance, sent all the cat-lovers of the British Isles spiralling out of their litter trays and into a national rage of indignation.

‘NEWS AT TEN’ REPORT UPSETS CAT-LOVERS
Cat-lovers complained to Independent television last night after ‘News at Ten’, read by Reginald Bosanquet, ended with a report about a cat being rescued from a tree by troops manning a Green Goddess.
The report said that the troops recued the cat after a plea by an elderly woman, accepted her invitation to tea and biscuits, then ran over the cat on their way back to the barracks.
The complaining cat-lovers said they found the incident far from amusing.

We, on the other hand, found it hilarious.

Sunday, July 3, 2016

The Great City in the North




I’ve lived in Carlisle for almost two years now, the past year living on my own in a rented flat in the city centre. I was here previously (and briefly) in 1990, as part of a hand-picked team of six men tasked to design and deliver bespoke training throughout the Royal Air Force. We were given six weeks to design the training, after which we were divided into three two-man teams, each covering different areas, both at home and abroad. It meant six months on the road, visiting every RAF Station in Scotland, North Yorkshire, Wales and Cyprus as well as Berlin, Stafford and 14MU, Carlisle. It was a job that required dedication, teamwork, focus and lots and lots of alcohol.

I seemed to be lucky in the other half of my team, Paul, an eternally happy man who liked driving, but didn’t like drinking. In Scotland, during our spare time (of which we had lots) we embarked on the Malt Whisky Trail and he cheerfully drove me to all the distilleries and I happily drank his complimentary whiskies as well as my own. He was, it seemed, the perfect partner for someone like me to be on the road with. But everyone has a dark side, and Paul’s was his taste in music. He had brought along a selection of cassette tapes to play on the long journeys we had to make between locations. The word ‘make’, is really a substitute for the word ‘endure’, because his taste in music was truly awful.

He had about fifteen cassettes in his collection and they were all recordings by either Belinda Carlisle, Gilbert O’Sullivan or John Denver. He even had John Denver and the Muppets at Christmas in there, which would have been fine if it had been December. But it was the end of August and we were travelling in bright sunshine. And it was hot. Even in December, listening to John Denver and The Muppets at Christmas is such an awful experience that the only way to counteract its relentless sickly, syrupiness is to go immediately to Newfoundland and club to death a few baby seals. The experience of listening to it was made even worse on my journey from Stafford to Carlisle by being trapped in a hot car in the middle of a heatwave with the happiest man in the world.  They say happiness is infectious, but, trust me, it’s not, and after a while it just gets on your nerves. And so, when we stopped at a service station on the M6, I went into the WH Smith shop and bought three cassette tapes. These were Never Mind the Bollocks by the Sex Pistols, London Calling by the Clash and Dark Side of the Moon by Pink Floyd.

I know what you’re going to say here: What the hell did you think you were doing buying Dark Side of the Moon alongside two classic punk albums which addressed working class anxieties and social unrest amongst the disaffected youth of the mid to late seventies, and which were the complete antithesis of what Pink Floyd and countless other middle-class, masturbatory high-concept bands of that time represented? Hey, stop judging me! Just because I had embraced the giddy, anarchistic nihilism of punk didn’t mean to say that I had to stop liking Pink Floyd. Give me a break – at least I didn’t walk out of the shop with Tales of Topographic Oceans by Yes.

As we set off again, serenaded by the sickening jolliness of Calypso by John Denver blasting out of the car’s stereo system for around the tenth time, I said, “I’m sorry, Paul, but if I don’t turn this off and put something else on I’m going to go mad.”

“OK,” he said cheerfully, “You can put Gilbert O’Sullivan on instead if you like.”

“No thanks,” I told him. “I’ve got something better.”

I ejected the loathsome John Denver cassette out of the stereo and slammed in Dark Side of the Moon. Paul listened with fascination as the heartbeat started and the crescendo of instruments and voices led into the track Breathe, followed by On the Run and then the ticking clocks and heavy bass-line of Time. Without taking his eyes off the road, Paul asked, “What’s this, then?”

I gave him a look of utter astonishment. “What do you mean, what’s this, then? It’s Dark Side of the Moon by Pink Floyd. That’s what this is.”

“Oh,” he said. “I’ve never heard of it.”

Let’s consider Paul’s reply for a moment. Dark Side of the Moon is one of the best-selling albums of all time. It has sold over 50 million copies worldwide. On a ‘slow week’ it sold between 8000 and 9000 copies. The tracks Time and Money were played almost every day on the radio and from the date of its release on 1 March 1973 it never left the Billboard album chart for a total of 741 weeks. That’s over fourteen years! It was estimated that one in every fourteen people under the age of 50 (in the US alone) owned, or had owned a copy of it. Which meant that when I slammed it into the car stereo, pretty much everyone in the entire world had heard it.

Except for Paul. 

Paul had never heard it.

Even worse, he had not even heard of it. Even my mum, who used to constantly tell me to ‘turn that bloody heebie-jeebie music of yours down’, had heard of it, and her taste in music was even worse than Paul’s. Her complete lack of any taste in music was undeniably confirmed when she told me once that she thought Cliff Richard, the Peter Pan of Pap, was better than Elvis. 

This huge, gaping hole in Paul’s musical knowledge made me wonder where he had been living since 1973. In a lead-lined container with no newspapers, radio or television, and with just his treasured collection of Belinda Carlisle, Gilbert O’Sullivan and John Denver cassette tapes to keep him company?

I thought he was joking when he told me that he had never heard of it. “You’re joking,” I said, incredulously.

“No,” he said, “it’s not bad, though, is it.”

I spent the rest of the journey to Carlisle in moody silence.

After checking into the hotel that had been booked for us, we went out for a bit of sightseeing. We looked round Carlisle Castle and the cathedral and then I suggested we go for something to eat. In a pub. I can’t remember the pub we went to but the beer was good and I had a little too much to drink. On our way back to the hotel we passed a van selling Doner Kebabs. I’d never had a Doner Kebab before and, although I’d eaten earlier, the glutton in me insisted that I buy one. I don’t usually eat food prepared in vans. One such van, which the personnel stationed at RAF Halton endearingly called ‘The Van of Death’, was parked every night outside the main gates. It sold greasy food to all the drunks who spilled out of the pubs at closing time, and whose ability to reason clearly and rationally had deserted them several pints earlier. The food served there, by a man of indeterminable age and nationality, had somehow mysteriously lost any nutritional value it might have had before it was plunged into the boiling hot fat. Flavour, provided by red or brown sauce, was optional. Food poisoning, however, was compulsory.

The van in Carlisle didn’t look nearly as uninviting as the one parked outside the main gates of RAF Halton and so I ordered a Doner Kebab with everything on it. It was delicious. 

It was so delicious, in fact, that I returned there the following evening before I went to the pub and ordered another one. I was expecting it to be as flavoursome and lip-smackingly delicious as the one I had eaten the night before. It was the same van and I was served by the same man using the same ingredients, but I was completely unaware of the fact (known only to nutritional scientists and Turkish people) that a Doner Kebab sold from a van is a unique form of cuisine, in that its flavour depends entirely on the amount of alcohol an individual has consumed before eating it. If the kebab is eaten before the required amount of alcohol has been consumed (as a general rule this is ‘one too many’) a magical transformation occurs within its cellular structure, rendering it both revolting and totally inedible. 

That was my abiding memory of Carlisle until I returned to live here almost two years ago.

Bitts Park in Winter

Carlisle has changed a lot since I was here in that summer of 1990. The city centre has undergone the homogenised overhaul that all major cities in Britain seem to have been subjected to in recent years. It’s been pedestrianised and its shops are mostly the same shops you can find wherever you go. But you don’t have to walk far to get away from all that. Bitts Park is a lovely green space that I spend half an hour each day walking around. The cathedral is spectacular and Tullie House, in the old part of the city, is a fantastic museum that also holds film nights and some great art exhibitions – a retrospective of the inspirational German contemporary artist Anselm Kiefer, which also contained two new pieces, has been one of its many highlights. There’s history, art and culture all around – you only have to look.

Carlisle Cathedral in Winter

One thing I have noticed is the abundance of the word artisan attached to items in some of the high street shop windows. It’s a word I never really noticed before and one I certainly never came across in the six years I spent abroad. It’s a noun that’s used to sell any number of ordinary items at inflated prices, mainly (but not exclusively) those everyday useful objects you tend to find in your kitchen. The Concise Oxford English Dictionary definition of artisan is this: a skilled worker who makes things by hand. Now, I don’t consider myself to be the smartest person in the world, but as I glanced into the window of an overpriced kitchenware shop and saw several identical electric kettles that looked like they had just come off an assembly line, and which were described as artisan kettles, I did struggle to comprehend how they could all have been made by hand and by skilled workers.

Carlisle Castle in Winter

And what do all these skilled workers who make identical electric kettles by hand do for entertainment in Carlisle? Perhaps they spend their Saturday nights on Botchergate, a long, wide road that accommodates a vast array of pubs, restaurants, takeaways and nightclubs. Botchergate on a Saturday night is bursting with men emblazoned with tattoos or sporting big, bushy, lumbersexual beards and young women who are out on the pull and scantily dressed, no matter what the weather is like. Even on the coldest Saturday night in the dead of winter you would be hard pressed to find anything resembling a coat anywhere on Botchergate and if, as scientists have predicted, global warming does precipitate a new ice age, it would do nothing to deter these young women from going out wearing as little as possible. To the unenlightened observer it might seem like a vision from Dante’s Inferno, but it is, in fact, a great night out. People don’t ignore you if you’re on your own. They say, “Hello”. They engage you in conversation. They talk to you, not at you. And as you walk along the wide road, which is closed off to all traffic on a Saturday night, dodging the odd drunk or two who blearily stumbles in front of you, it may appear, to the untrained eye, as if you have inexplicably wandered on to the set of John Carpenter’s Escape From New York, but I’ve never felt threatened there and I can’t think of anywhere else where I am able to buy a pint for as little as two quid in one of the many pubs down its length. 

The inhabitants of Carlisle are friendly, open and chatty, but then again, this is the North of England. I was born in the North of England. Everyone in the North of England is friendly – well, maybe not in some parts of Yorkshire where surliness and an inbuilt compulsion to ‘tell it as it is’ is regarded as a righteous and noble local characteristic. When the floods hit the city last year everyone pulled together and assisted as best they could. Carlisle people look after each other.

The Flood

Carlisle is without doubt a beautiful city, especially the old part, but there are some days, when I’m walking through its pedestrianised centre, that my inherent grumpiness gets the better of me. This is mainly because I have to run the gauntlet of people wearing brightly coloured T-shirts who try to engage me in friendly banter, but who are just trying to get money out of me for some charity or other. Some days these cheerful, chatty charity fund raisers are so thick on the ground that I feel like Commander Stryker in the film Airplane, fighting his way through hordes of Hari Krishnas and other charity groups, to get to the air traffic control tower and save the day. I never give to street charities and it may be the eternal cynic in me, but I just don’t trust them. For me, the worst of these are the ones collecting for wounded soldiers. You give them money and they give you a swimming band. There are recognised official charities already set up to support wounded soldiers – Help for Heroes being one of them – and I doubt very much if they would condone any of these so-called charity fund raisers, many of whom have been exposed as chancers, lining their own pockets with the money they take from a gullible general public.

There’s also a guy who stands on a soap box with a microphone sellotaped to his face and a Bible in his hand, shouting about how we all have to accept the Lord Jesus into our hearts before we can be accepted into the Kingdom of Heaven, because if we don’t we’ll all suffer eternal damnation in the fires of Hell (or maybe it was Down South, I can’t remember which). As an atheist I find him highly offensive, but I can’t help feeling a little sympathy for him as I wonder how indoctrinated he must be to do something as embarrassingly idiotic as that.

What really sets my Grumpometer into overdrive, however, is a street musician, if, in fact, you can actually call him a musician. On the whole, the street musicians in Carlisle are pretty good. There’s a trio of old guys who play Ragtime music, a father and son who both play accordion, a young female violinist and several young men and women with guitars. And then there’s him – the didgeridoo player.

There’s an old joke in the form of a Q&A that goes: What do you call someone who hangs around with musicians? The answer is: a drummer. People of my age can still remember going to see rock bands in the 1970s and experiencing that stupefying moment when, without warning, the drummer began to launch into a solo of indeterminate and intolerable length. I went to see Emerson, Lake and Palmer in Düsseldorf in 1974, in which Carl Palmer did a twenty-five minute drum solo. I liked Carl Palmer. I thought he was a brilliant drummer, but I didn’t want to hear him demonstrating his percussive skills for twenty-five minutes because I thought (and still think) that drum solos are boring beyond belief and anyone who thinks they are enjoyable is either a moron or another drummer. I have since discovered, however, that there’s something I hate more than drum solos and that’s listening to someone playing the didgeridoo. The didgeridoo player who performs in the high street every day in Carlisle is usually situated outside Boots and the sound of his instrument of choice drives me insane. I’ve not thought about this until today, but maybe he is secretly employed by Boots in order to boost their sales of Paracetamol. Don’t get me wrong here, I think the didgeridoo is a perfectly acceptable instrument if played by an aborigine in the Australian outback where no-one can hear him but himself and the occasional kangaroo. But a white guy, probably not Australian, playing a didgeridoo in the centre of Carlisle – at Christmas

Please.

I wouldn’t mind if he played some Christmas songs on it, but he doesn’t, and hearing it droning incessantly away is about as entertaining as listening to a solo performer playing the choral movement of Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony on a triangle.

I’m sure he’s probably a really nice guy with exceptional table manners and if he’s reading this I apologise unreservedly, but that doesn’t alter the fact that he is wilfully playing what can only be described as an instrument of torture. Maybe he could find another use for it, something that could be of benefit to society perhaps. Using it to replace a damaged drainpipe on the outside of a house seems like a good idea to me. Just as long as I don’t have to listen to the perpetual, tuneless droning of it every time I walk through the city centre. It’s like being followed around by a giant bee.

But, saying that, enduring the sound of a didgeridoo is a small price to pay in order to live in such a wonderful city. And despite the fact that it is the northernmost city in Britain, it is surprisingly easy to get to other places. You can hop on a train and be in Edinburgh in less than two hours, Newcastle, Liverpool or Manchester in less than three hours and London in less than four hours. I have travelled throughout the Middle East, North America, Central America, Mexico, Asia, Africa, India, Europe, the Mediterranean and the Baltic States and somehow I’ve ended up here and, you know what? – I’m happier now than I have ever been. Everything I want is here. In fact, I have no intention of ever moving again. I will spend the rest of my days here. Because Carlisle is where I belong. 

The view from my flat in Winter

It’s my home.